This week we travel around Bulgaria, seeing monasteries, Roman ruins, amazing rock formations, get stuck, and develop a screech.
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The Detail:
Distance Covered: 505 miles
Financial: Fuel £72; LPG £13; Groceries £53; Alcohol £11; Zeus £4; Entrance Fees £14; Eating Out £7 Total £174
Stopovers: Chernogorsky Monastery; Lopushanski Monastery; Belogradchik; Kozloduy; Roman City of Ulpia Oescus; Evlogievo; Rock Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
This was our first full week in Bulgaria. It’s not a country we are particularly familiar with so we came here with no preconceptions and didn’t really know what to expect.
Now, after almost two weeks, we are starting to get a better idea of what Bulgaria is all about. A country of lush forested mountains, and vast areas of farmland. With some lovely traditional villages, churches, and monasteries containing some magnificent examples of religious art.
The seven Lakes of Rila to Chernogorsky Monastery
The seven Lakes of Rila are a series of interconnected glacial lakes in the Rila Mountains. They are located at an altitude ranging between 2100 and 2500 metres.
Each is named after its predominant feature. They are Salzata (“The Tear”), Okoto (“The Eye”), Babreka (“The Kidney”), Bliznaka (“The Twin”), Trilistnika (“The Trefoil”), Ribnoto Ezero (“The Fish Lake”), and Dolnoto Ezero (“The Lower Lake”), where the water that flows out of the others collects to form the Dzherman River.
Because of the altitude, the weather can be unpredictable at this time of year. The lakes are usually frozen from October to June, and for these reasons, most people visit during July and August, when the temperature up there is around 10 degrees Celsius.
It is possible to hike up to the lakes, but it is a difficult, steep trail, and takes around 1.5 hours. Therefore most people use the chairlift to get to the start point of the 3 to 5 hour hike around the lakes.
As with any machinery, the chairlift requires regular maintenance. This is usually carried out on the last Monday of each month. During maintenance, it is of course not open to the public.
I think you might be able to see where I am going with this now. Guess which day we chose to come here?
Yup, the last Monday in March. The forecast for today isn’t too bad, but the weather is deteriorating for the rest of the week. There is a little snow still on the ground around where we are parked (1530 m) so I can only assume that the higher up we are the more snow there will be.
What to do?
Attempt the hike to the top on foot?
Leave and move on, putting it down to experience?
Hunker down and wait for the weather to improve? (This may be a few days, but with the unpredictable weather could be longer)
Leave and come back at another time?
Oh, and I am really not sure about taking Zeus on the chairlift. Apparently, dogs are allowed on their owner’s laps at their own risk. But some of the drops are quite high, judging by the pictures, and I have no idea how he will react. If he panics on the ride he is quite a big dog to restrain.
In the end, Mother Nature made the decision for us. We took a walk up to the chair lift, just to have a look around more than anything. Then it started to “rain”, although it wasn’t rain, it was snow. Coupled with the high winds it had all the makings of a blizzard. I can only imagine how much worse it would have been at the top.
So we chalked it up to experience and moved on.
Partisan Monument Flame
As we were driving along towards Kyustendil, where there is a Redwood Forest we wanted to see, we came across a monument on top of a hill. It was visible from some distance away and looked quite unusual so we decided to take a closer look.
According to Google there is no road to the monument, but just before, at the base of the hill, was a small turning. So we tried it. It was narrow, poorly maintained, and with overhanging branches, but we made it through and managed to get right to the monument where there was quite a large car park. Go figure?
The monument was erected in 1975 to commemorate 16 partisans killed there in 1944 by fascist forces. Sadly it is now in a bad way. The plaza is overgrown and the sculptural panels have been stripped away leaving bare, graffiti covered concrete. It’s a shame, in good condition it would be a striking place to visit.
Old Sequoia Trees
In western Bulgaria is a small area near Bogoslov village where you can find a plantation of Giant Sequoia Trees.
The first trees were planted between 1890 and 1914 by Yordan Mitrev. Today the 3 biggest have grown to over 30m tall and are surrounded by more than 100 younger trees.
They are the oldest, and tallest in Bulgaria, and are a place of pilgrimage where people come to hug their soft bark and draw on their natural energy.
Chernogorsky Monastery
We finished the day at Chernogorsky Monastery near Gigintsi.
There has been a monastery in the area since around the 11th century and it has had a troubled history. The current Monastery has been sympathetically restored over the last 20 years into the magnificent buildings you can see today.
Chernogorsky Monastery to Lopushanski Monastery
The idea today was to have a drive through Western Bulgaria towards the North West corner as there are a couple of places we want to visit there.
We were hoping for a leisurely drive and an early finish as we seem to be covering a lot of miles still. The best laid plans of mice and men and all that.
So we set off. Following the main road (811) to link up with route 81 which crosses the Balkan Mountains through the Petrohan Pass towards Montana.
It all started so well. The SatNav telling us it should only take a couple of hours or so to make the 134km journey. We knew it would be a bit longer than that because we don’t rush, but you should never assume……
We were bimbling along, soaking up the scenery, passing through small villages with friendly, smiling locals. Then, just after Rakita, it suddenly changed.
The main road became a dirt track – it had been a proper road at some point in the distant past, but no longer. It was literally a network of potholes and crevasses where the weather had washed everything away.
All I could do was gingerly pick my way through the best I could at a crawling pace for 14 kilometres. It should have been a 20 minute drive, but took 2.5 hours. The road did eventually improve, but not by much, until we came off route 81.
There was one unexpected discovery along the way. We got to a small village called Gurgulyat. Up on the hill above the village was a massive monument. We drove past thinking we would be able to get a closer look a little further on, but the access road was actually tucked away in the village itself so we turned around to drive up to it.
It was a little surreal. It was huge, with a large car park and open areas all around. What looked like toilets in the corner, albeit in disrepair. Totally unexpected in such a remote location.
The monument is called the Mother Bulgaria Pantheon and commemorates the soldiers and officers who died in the Battle of Gurgulyat during the Serbo-Bulgarian War in 1885. Built in 1985 to mark the 100th anniversary of the unification of Bulgaria.
It is constructed of red concrete in a kind of truncated pyramid. Inside there is a statue of a woman symbolizing Mother Bulgaria, grieving for her lost children.
Once we eventually got off route 81 the roads improved dramatically, and the rest of the journey went pretty smoothly.
What seems to be becoming a little bit of an issue is finding somewhere we are comfortable to park up for the night. Once again we tried several possibilities before we settled at the Monastery.
The first place we looked at was a car park on the outskirts of Montana, which if I am honest was never going to be our kind of stopover, we only looked at it because we were concerned about the weather.
The second was alongside the reservoir just outside Montana. Under normal conditions, it would have been ideal. Quiet, away from people, somewhere to walk Zeus. Unfortunately, however, it was a little exposed and the wind was really quite strong. We were being blown around while we stopped briefly, so trying to rest would have been challenging.
So we ended up at another monastery. Not as far from the road as we would like, but it seems quiet enough. And we are parked right outside the monastery up against the wall which is giving us protection from the wind. I should say that we didn’t just pull up and park here, we did ask permission first.
Belogradchik
Located in the northwest of Bulgaria, Belogradchik is best known for the nearby rock formations and the Medieval Fortress which stands above the town. It is mostly a tourist destination because of the rocks and fortress, but also because of its proximity to Magura Cave and the Medieval Fortress of Baba Vida.
It is a beautiful little town, really well maintained by Bulgarian standards. The picturesque town square is located at the edge of town with a commanding view over some of the rock formations. There is a large galleried area adjacent to the square where you can sit on one of the many benches and admire the view.
There is plenty going on in the town too. They host an annual balloon festival, with balloons from across the globe launched from the fairground just below the town. Organised hikes and quad bike rides to name a few.
We took a leisurely drive up route 102 to get there and I have to say that after yesterday’s shenanigans it was a pretty decent road most of the way.
We found an awesome spot to park up for the night. Along a dirt road for about a kilometre, a little rough but easily passable, to a small clearing in the woods right amongst the rock formations.
Aside (and a little tongue in cheek)
One thing that we have noticed as we have been driving around is the frequent benches and other seating outside the houses.
It appears that the older generation in particular like to sit outside and watch the world go by whilst chatting with friends.
Of course, it also gives them the perfect place to stare at passing motorhomes. I have mentioned previously that it isn’t considered rude to stare in Bulgaria and it’s something they do very well. I jokingly said to Carol that if staring was an Olympic event then Bulgaria would definitely win gold.
Belogradchik Rock Formations
Formed over millions of years the rock formations are a wholly natural phenomenon. Time and mother nature have formed the rock into imposing towers and obelisks, each with its own character. So much so that many of the formations have been given their own name, often as a reference to their appearance, but sometimes associated with legend too.
Belogradchik Fortress
Standing over the town, nestled among the rock formations, lies the Medieval Fortress. It is one of the best-preserved strongholds in Bulgaria and a cultural monument of national importance.
The fortress itself is well worth the small entrance fee in its own right. But the best thing for us, and one of the reasons it was built there in the first place, was the views.
The climb up to the citadel is steep and quite challenging, even with the metal steps provided. But once at the top you are rewarded with a panoramic view across the impressive rock formations to the Balkan Mountains and across the plains below.
Magura Cave
The Magura Cave, found close to the village of Rabisha, was one of the reasons why we came to this area.
Renowned for the cave paintings found within it is a substantial network of tunnels and chambers stretching over 2 kilometres.
In the end, however, we chose not to visit. This was for 3 main reasons:
Firstly, the cave paintings. These were what we particularly wanted to see, and the main reason for our visit. But for some years now access to the paintings has been restricted (despite their featuring in all their marketing) and the general public cannot view them. All you can see are pictures of them, which is not the same thing at all.
Secondly, dogs are not allowed. I’m not sure why this is. The caves have been home to diverse animals throughout the ages and have lived to tell the tale. Because of this, had we decided to visit, we would have had to take it in turns to take the tour. With limited tours, several hours apart, it would have meant a great deal of time just waiting around.
Thirdly, according to what we could find out, you can only go through the caves with a guide. This is fine, and I totally understand why. Apparently, however, the guides don’t speak any language other than Bulgarian. Whilst I don’t expect everyone to speak English wherever we go, the cost of the guided tour becomes excessive when you can’t understand what is being said, and the guide effectively just becomes someone who sets the pace for a walk around the cave.
Lom and Kozloduy
Today was something of a reversion to type for us. For some reason we have been moving from destination to destination within Bulgaria so far, without really exploring where we are.
With no particular destination in mind. We just drove, stopping where we felt like it. And it felt good.
I think sometimes we all get tied up with planning and forget to let go and live for the moment. So far in Bulgaria we have been moving between places we wanted to see and not taking time out to experience the real Bulgaria.
So today was a refreshing reminder about taking the foot off the pedal and appreciating what the real Bulgaria has to offer, not just the places that have become the “must-see” destinations.
Simple pleasures like parents bringing their children for football training, gentlemen fishing for their supper in the Danube (I still need to find out what they do with the small fish they are catching), and taking a stroll along the river bank. You don’t see this kind of thing if you are focusing on the next destination.
We were driving through the North of Bulgaria along Route 11. This road roughly follows the Danube, the natural border with Romania, through rolling hills and farmland.
This area must be the bread basket of Bulgaria. We’re not talking about small independent farmsteads or smallholders. The farms are huge with immense fields and modern machinery.
Lom
The first stop was Lom. Located on the banks of the Danube, close to the point where the river Lom joins it, it is a modern port town, a thriving, bustling place, not really recognised as a usual tourist destination.
We stopped on the outskirts of town, close to the port, at Dunavaski Park. This is a lovely park area right on the banks of the Danube, busy with local people enjoying the sunshine, fishing, walking pets, strolling, chatting with friends or just sitting and staring. Perfect for a lunch break and a stroll with Zeus.
Kozloduy
We finished the day at Kozloduy. Another thriving town on the Danube. It’s best known as the location of Bulgaria’s only nuclear power plant and as a result is one of the wealthiest areas of Bulgaria, with a standard of living above the national average.
As you would expect it isn’t a tourist destination, people don’t usually flock to see a nuclear power plant.
We stopped on the outskirts of the town in the Park Hristo Botev, named after the revolutionary poet and national hero. This is a lovely parkland area, popular at weekends, with woodland walks, BBQ areas, a small harbour and plenty of shaded seating.
At the small harbour you can find a replica of the Radetzky, a steamship noted as being part of the history of Bulgaria. It was the ship which Hristo Botev and his band bloodlessly hijacked and used to reach Kozloduy.
Northern Bulgaria and The Roman City Of Ulpia Oescus
Continuing our slow drive across North Bulgaria, the motorhome has developed a screeching sound from the fan belt. Using the power of Facebook we have been chatting with a lady who lives in Bulgaria who has recommended a mechanic to us. So getting it sorted on Tuesday.
In the meantime we continued exploring this area, with a couple of practical stops for groceries and water. Yesterday’s theme of huge farms and poor roads continued. The scenery is lovely, the driving slow, but as it’s mostly farmlands and farming villages there aren’t that many things to stop and visit.
When it came to the time for us to start thinking about finding somewhere to stop for the night the apps let us down for the first time.
Bulgaria isn’t a hugely popular motorhoming destination – yet. That may change with Croatia joining the Schengen area, but for the moment you simply don’t see many motorhomes on the roads. That also means there hasn’t been a huge number of people coming before us looking for places to stay. So consequently the apps sometimes don’t list many available parking places.
And that was the case tonight. We found one possibility, but when we got there it was just roadside parking so it wasn’t for us.
At a bit of a loss what to do I started to look on maps to see what was in the area. I was in luck. Some Roman remains nearby. A quick check on satellite view and it appears there is parking close to the entrance. So off we go.
What a find. Perfect for us. Surrounded by farmland. No houses nearby. So we parked up before having a wander around the site.
To be honest I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. There are extensive ruins here, in remarkably good condition. And yet no one is doing anything with them. There is evidence of ongoing excavations, with some of the dig sites under protective shelters. But I would say that nothing much has been done for some time.
Evlogievo
A short drive from our overnight stop to a small village called Evlogievo.
This is a tiny little hamlet with a population of about 50. Mostly older generation. It’s not a place you would normally go out of your way to visit, but we wanted to see it for ourselves as it is where a friend of ours used to live a few years back.
We pulled into the village and had a slow crawl up the main street. Thinking we would just have a quick look around and then be on our way. Attracting the now customary stares we pulled over and tried to speak to one of the locals, saying that a friend used to have property here and we had come to see where she lived.
We speak no Bulgarian, they spoke no English, so eventually we showed them a picture. They instantly recognised her, and we were able to glean approximate directions to her house. So we parked up and got ready to go for a wander.
By the time we had sorted ourselves out we had attracted quite a bit of attention. We got out and were immediately approached by a young lady, Ani, who spoke really good English and offered to show us around.
We spent a lovely afternoon in the village, looking around and meeting some of the locals. What blew us away was just how friendly everyone was. We hadn’t intended to linger, but ended up stopping over after we were offered a place to park up with electric supply if we wanted it (we didn’t take up the electric offer). It was just lovely and laid back, a nice change of pace.
As with many of the villages in Bulgaria there are a number of properties in poor condition. Property in Bulgaria is still very cheap. What seems to be happening is that the young generation are moving to the bigger towns and cities to find work.
The property in the rural areas is occupied by the older folk. As they pass on the property becomes vacant, but selling it is difficult so it lays empty and starts to deteriorate. The young folk live too far away to keep coming back to maintain it. As property values are so low there is no value in paying someone to do it up to sell so it just sits there.
Maybe things will change in the future. As the current generation starts to reach retirement age they may look to move back to the countryside. Pushing prices back up again, and making investment worthwhile.
But who knows, as things stand rural communities are struggling and villages are becoming ghost towns. A walk around here last night and less than one in 3 properties had a light on.
Getting stuck, the Rock Monastery and the Rock Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
I suppose it had to happen at some point. Especially considering some of the places we have taken the motorhome.
Manoeuvring out of the yard this morning. The entrance is tight with a sharp left immediately past the exit. Further hampered by a small building.
I edged out at a crawl, hugging the right hand side. Keeping straight for as long as I could. Then spin the steering wheel hard left. Watch the overhang at the back doesn’t catch the bank on the right on the way out. Almost out, start to straighten up, then disaster. The rear lefthand wheel drops into a hole. It’s deep, we are going nowhere. I hadn’t spotted it, despite walking past it more than once. It was hidden in the grass at the bottom of the bank.
A call to Ani, a cry for help. She has left for home, but calls her dad, Emile, for us. After about 15 minutes he arrives in a little van. After a quick assessment of the situation, he realises that we are going to need something with a bit more pull to get us out.
He has a tractor, so off he goes to get it.
Returning 10 minutes or so later with a small, old, but beautifully maintained tractor. We hitch up and try to pull Lottie out. The ground is slippery (long wet grass), the hole deep. It’s not working. Both Lottie’s and the wheels of the tractor aren’t getting enough traction.
We try putting bricks into the hole, attempting to get them under the wheel as we rock back and forth. To no avail.
Time to call another hero. A friend with a bigger tractor. When he arrives, it’s not a lot bigger. Nevertheless we hitch up and try again.
At first it seems it’s not going to work. But then we manage to get up a little. We keep trying, each time getting a little bit further. Emile is trying to get rocks under the wheel as we move back and forth.
And finally, we are out. It all seemed like something of an anticlimax after that. We unhitched the tractor and everyone disappeared. I tried to offer Emile some money but received a firm no. What an amazing little village with amazing people.
A quick inspection and amazingly no damage done. Not even a scratch. And that was that. We were finally on our way.
Rock Monastery of Basarbovo
Just outside Ruse, in Northern Bulgaria, is a small village called Basarbovo. Best known for the Rock Monastery St. Dimitar Basarabovski.
This is the only active rock Monastery in Bulgaria. With a beautiful courtyard and modern church at the foot of the cliff. The older church and sleeping quarters built into the rockface higher up the cliff, accessed via steps carved into the rock.
It’s not a big Monastery and doesn’t take long to look around, but is well looked after and worth visiting if only for its quirkiness.
Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo
A short drive from the Monastery you can find these unusual churches. A complex of churches, chapels, monasteries, and cells first dug out by hermits during the 12th century.
This is a UNESCO site, mainly because of the 14th-century murals painted by artists from the Tarnovo School of painting.
Some menu highlights from this week
Click on the picture for further information. If you would like recipes or further information let me know in the comments
And that was week 4 of our current adventure. We’ve had some very memorable times already, sometimes for the wrong reasons. We have seen some beautiful places, despite the ice and snow, and cold temperatures.
As before, There is so much more we saw and did that I haven’t included here – you’ll just have to go see it for yourself!
I haven’t gone into great detail about anything in particular in this post, so if you would like me to expand on anything please leave a comment and I will endeavor to write another separate post on the topic.
Happy Motorhoming.
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