This week we travel from Methana to Nafplio, climb volcanos, make new friends, relax on the beach and experience carnival in Greece.
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The Detail:
Distance Covered: 170 miles
Financial: Fuel £0; LPG £17; Site Fees/Parking £42; Ferry £5; Groceries £101; Alcohol £25; Zeus £22; Eating out £50; Entrance Fees £5; Laundry £17; Total £284
Stopovers: Methana; Galatas [2 nights]; Ermioni; Lampaggiana Beach [2 nights]; Nafpoli
Lygourio to Methana
We had a lovely few days at the camperstop last week. Sufficiently rested, it’s now time to start exploring the Peloponnese peninsula. For some reason I keep getting tongue tied with that and have taken to calling it Penelope’s Knees.
Before departing I picked up some homemade wine, olive oil and tsipouro that they were selling.
Tsipouro is a spirit distilled using pomace, the solid remains from the production of wine. Traditionally it is left pure, but can also be flavoured with anise. It is served as an aperitif, an accompaniment to meze, and is consumed by old boys in cafes all over Greece.
Our first stop today was at the Archaeological site at the Asclepieion of Epidaurus. This is another large site with many different buildings, the main ones being the theatre, which still hosts an annual festival to this day, the stadium, the banquet hall, and the sanctuary.
Epidaurus was a major site of healing, established in the 6th century BC. It gained fame throughout the world for its unique healing practices as it was undoubtedly the greatest of such sites at the time.
As with the majority of historical sites in Greece it comes under the auspices of the Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Tourism. In practical terms that means for us that Zeus isn’t allowed in. So once again I am left holding the baby, so to speak.
From there we moved on to the Sunken City of Ancient Epidaurus. These are actually the remains of a Roman villa from the 2nd century AD, which was located very close to the Agora, opposite the ancient port and below the Acropolis of ancient Epidaurus. Today it is under about 6 feet of water, and can only be viewed with a snorkel and mask. Needless to say, we weren’t tempted.
The next stop was the Little Theatre at the Ancient City of Epidaurus. This used to be the theatre of the ancient city-state and, apart from drama performances, it also hosted religious and political celebrations. Unfortunately, the site was closed to the public for further excavation work but was clearly visible through the fencing which was really close to the ruins.
After a lovely scenic drive along the coast, the last stop of the day was Methana. This is a volcanic peninsula located in the southeastern Peloponnese, connected to the mainland by a small isthmus.
The scenery as you drive along the winding roads is stunning, with views across to the island of Poros. A little further on you are treated to a beautiful view of the largest town on the peninsula, Methana.
The area is well known for the healing qualities of its thermal springs. As you come down the hill into the town one of the first things you come across is the open-air baths of the thermal spa. The pale blue, volcanic waters contain a combination of methane (Methana gave its name to this gas) and hydrogen sulphide.
If you don’t already know, hydrogen sulphide has a wonderful aroma of rotten eggs, which is strongest in the vicinity of the spa but can be smelt faintly throughout the town. If you can put up with the smell, however, the waters are said to help people who suffer from arthritis, rheumatism, skin diseases, and neurological problems.
There are times when it is easy to forget that it is still winter here. The weather today was so pleasantly warm we were in shorts and t-shirts. Then something reminds you, and today it was a pleasant stroll along the town’s promenade looking at restaurants and tavernas with huge numbers of tables and chairs, both inside and out, but with no people around. In just a few short months it will be a completely different story I’m sure.
One other thing of note. Guess it is time for the processionary caterpillars to make their way down from the trees. We found far too many of them for our liking. Fortunately, Zeus doesn’t pay them any mind, but we will still have to be very careful for a few weeks.
Methana to Galastas
Today we mostly climbed a volcano.
We got away fairly sharpish this morning. Then proceeded to have the slowest drive imaginable around the peninsula. Yes the roads were narrow, and yes the safety barriers were non existent, and yes there was virtually nothing else on the road to push us along.
But the main thing that slowed us down was the jaw dropping scenery around every turn. Hidden rocky coves, quintessential villages nestled in the mountain valleys, beautiful villas with uninterrupted views across the Saronic Gulf to the island of Poros, achingly pretty seaside villages with their beachside tavernas, the crystal clear, azure waters, quaint little churches.
Finally we reached our intended destination. A short hike up the side of a volcano to see the vent where the lava that built the mountainous landscape had come from.
Well, you know what assuming does! The path started off innocently enough, but very soon we were scrabbling over fallen boulders, trying to find a foothold, whilst clinging onto Zeus’ lead.
Once past those it got “easier”, or so others who have navigated it have written. I suppose you could say there was a “path”. And it was marked with painted blue and red stripes on the rocks. It was, however, very steep and winding, with some fairly big drops, frequent big boulders to clamber over or around, loose scree, and large gaps between rocks waiting to turn the ankle of the unwary hiker. Proper hiking boots and being sure to watch your footing are essential.
The last little climb to the vent where the lava erupted from is quite challenging. The actual mouth of the volcano isn’t much to look at, but the sweeping views out over the lava fields to the sea are just stunning.
The volcano itself is still classified as active, although there has not been an eruption for about 250,000 years. When it did erupt it wasn’t violent. The lava was so viscous that it just kind of oozed up and flowed down to the sea creating large lava fields. The peninsula itself is actually made up of about 30 peaks representing successive eruptions.
Once we had safely negotiated our way back down again we continued our circumnavigation of the peninsula. Eventually returning to the mainland via the same isthmus we arrived through.
We had a brief stop at Pfista’s Wetlands, which is found just as you get back to the mainland, to see the flamingos there.
Then onwards to Galatas a little further south. Galatas is a small town located right on the coast opposite the island of Poros. A narrow strait, about 400 metres wide separates the island from the mainland here.
Full of waterside tavernas and friendly faces it is worthy of a visit in its own right. But what really makes it unique is the gorgeous view across the narrow strait to Poros.
We were lucky enough to be able to park in one of the free car parks, right on the seafront a few feet from the gently lapping water. And the view through the windscreen was just beautiful. The charming, typically Greek houses nestled on the hillside fronted by shops, tavernas, cafés, and restaurants along the seafront. Interspersed with picturesque churches, a clock tower, and windmills. It represents most people’s idea of what the perfect Greek seaside town looks like.
Galatas and Poros
Today we visited the island of Poros.
Located in the Saronic Gulf. Actually two small islands joined by a small isthmus, individually known as Spheria and Kalavria which together form the island of Poros. Separated from the mainland by a narrow strait about 400 metres wide.
Access to the island is by ferry. Numerous small boats shuttle back and forth carrying people between the mainland and the island. Larger ferries also shuttle to and fro should you wish to take a vehicle over. Although a word of caution, the islands are small and not suitable for large vehicles. Motorhomes in particular aren’t welcomed there.
This was today’s destination. The plan was to catch the ferry across, explore some of the island and then move on a bit further round the coast.
It was such a beautiful day. The kind of day where nothing should be rushed. The kind of day where life is for living.
We hopped on one of the many small boats shuttling across the strait. €1.30 per person one way. Zeus was free. It was a calm crossing.
There is a well-signed walking trail around the town which takes you through the narrow streets and passages to all the places of interest.
Needless to say, we were so busy soaking up the atmosphere and taking in the sights that we didn’t even remotely follow the route.
We ended up following the road around the coast and were treated to some stunning views across the sea to the numerous small islands in the Gulf. Including Bourtzi Island with ruins of the Byzantine Castle, which was used to defend Poros from pirates.
It is an achingly pretty town, full of friendly people. We lost track of time just wandering through the narrow streets, taking in the old windmill, the clock tower, churches, charming houses, and super views.
By the time we thought about stopping for lunch, we had both worked up an appetite, not to mention a thirst, to say the least. We found a lovely little taverna just a little away from the main town, but still on the waterfront.
A super lunch and a couple of beers later and any thoughts of moving on today evaporated.
Galatas to Ermioni
Back in Athens, in the big coach park, we were parked next to a truck conversion owned by a French family. We had exchanged pleasantries, and had a brief conversation before leaving, but didn’t really think much of it.
When we arrived at Galatas we noticed the same truck conversion was also parked there. Naturally we struck up conversation, and actually got along with them really well.
As we were leaving we stopped to say goodbye, but ended up chatting for some time. They live in the Cognac region of France, and the family owns a distillery. They very kindly invited us to come stay with them at some point in the future. Definitely need to keep in contact as I am super excited to learn more about the distillation process and how to make cognac.
We had a slow drive around the coast today, just soaking up the scenery. It really is a beautiful part of Greece. Yes, there are pockets of commercialisation, but large parts remain unspoiled. We parked next to a small chapel for lunch, right on the seafront, but a little elevated. The view out to Idra (Hydra) island was just stunning.
We finished the day at a small port town called Ermioni. It is a popular tourist destination. There isn’t a huge amount to do in the town itself, but it is a good base for visiting the area. You can also catch a ferry from the nearby Porto Heli to Hydra or Spetses from there.
We had a lovely walk around the town and wooded headland before deciding to stay the night, parked right on the harbourside, with a lovely view of the town across the water.
Ermioni to Lampagianna Beach
Continued around the coastline today.
First stop was a small harbour town, Porto Heli (sometimes called Portocheli). The harbour there is quite big with regular ferries to Spetses, Hydra, Poros, Ermioni, Piraeus and Athens. There were also a number of larger yachts and boats moored there, so there is obviously some monied people around.
There was something about the town which just didn’t do it for Carol and I. The harbour front was lovely, and well maintained. There were the usual big restaurants lining the street. But something didn’t click for us
There was quite a lot of activity preparing for the carnival. The carnival season, known as Apokries, traditionally occurs in the period preceding lent. It is a period of masquerade, feasting, drinking and dancing. The biggest celebrations occur the weekend before Ash Monday.
Apokrie literally means abstinence from meat. The Sunday before Ash Monday is known as meat fare Sunday and marks the last day of meat consumption before lent. The consumption of meat, eggs, and dairy is traditionally forbidden during the 40 days of lent.
Ash Monday is a public holiday in Greece, marking the end of the festive carnival season and the beginning of lent.
From Porto Heli we made our way to a lovely beach which is used as a starting point for a short hike to the prehistoric cave of Franchthi.
It’s so lovely here I suspect we might stop for a couple of days. Parked right on the beach, overlooking the small Island of Kiladia (a privately owned island) with just the sound of gently lapping waves in the background.
The hike to the cave was pretty easy going, just a few boulders to negotiate along the way. The cave can also be accessed via boat from Koilada.
The cave itself is well worth a visit. Not huge, but well laid out with easy access and plenty of information boards in Greek and English.
On our second day here we mostly did absolutely nothing.
A lazy morning, a swim in the Mediterranean, a long lunch, and an afternoon chilling, just enjoying the sunshine and the tranquility.
It’s been a long time since both of us totally relaxed like this, and it’s glorious.
Lampagianna Beach to Nafplio
We have had a lovely couple of days just relaxing but the itchy feet just keep on itching.
The first stop today was something called the Great Doline of Didyma, and located in the same area, a smaller Doline (or sinkhole as it is otherwise called). Collectively they are known locally as the Caves of the Twins.
The Great Doline is easily visible on the hillside from many kilometres away. Formed by natural erosion of the limestone karst, creating a massive cavern into which the mountain side collapsed. It has the appearance of a natural amphitheatre, about 175 m long, 130 m wide, by 90 meters deep at the back. Because it is located on the slopes of mount Didymus, the front edge is much lower, with only a small drop to the floor of the Doline.
Located nearby, but much less visible, is a second slightly smaller Doline, measuring about 100 m in diameter and some 30 m deep. This one is nearer the farming village of Didyma on the plain under the mountain, and so is much less visible. Indeed, you don’t really know it’s there until you are pretty much on top of it.
This smaller Doline is accessed via a narrow road, with a small car park just by the entrance. It is just a short walk from here to the Great Doline, so is convenient for both. This Doline is accessed via a small tunnel carved through the rock, very narrow and low. When you emerge from the other end it is as if you have been transported to another realm.
This one is very different from the more rugged Great Doline. Because it was formed in the plane, its vertical sides drop to the floor some 30 meters below. Time and nature have transformed it into a kind of oasis in the middle of the olive groves. Filled with trees vying for the light above and plants clinging to the walls it has the appearance of a kind of hanging gardens.
There is a rough path going around the perimeter about halfway up the walls. It’s not difficult or scary. Following this path round you discover 2 tiny chapels built into the cliff walls during the Byzantine period. The one on the southern wall is called the Cave Church of Agios Georgios, and the one to the north the Cave Church of the Transfiguration.
After we have finished exploring the Dolines, we continued around the peninsula to Nafpoli. It is a coastal city, and regional capital of the municipality of Argolis. It is primarily a tourist destination because of the huge Venetian Fortress of Palamidi on the hillside overlooking the city, and the Byzantine Castle in the middle of the harbour, located on the tiny, rocky Bourtzi island.
We were of course aware that this weekend is carnival, but what we hadn’t appreciated was just how big a deal it is. When we arrived we couldn’t believe the traffic. Cars everywhere, double parked, in every available space, even parking down the middle of the (fortunately wide) main Street through the city. Wall to wall people
That’s ok, we’ll just park a bit out of town. Wrong. Every parking space in the nearby area was taken. No chance of parking the motorhome.
We ended up parking close to a small chapel, The Prophet Elias Greek Orthodox Church. Located on a small hill to the north of the city with a magnificent view of the fortress and harbour.
After much deliberation, we decided to stop here for the night. It was a bit windy and exposed, but the forecast was for the wind to drop. Let’s hope so.
Turns out it was the right decision. As it got dark we were treated to stunning views across the city to the illuminated fortress, and across the harbour to Bourtzi Castle, also illuminated. The icing on the cake………a magnificent view of the superb fireworks displays on the harbour and under the fortress.
Hopefully, we will be able to explore the city tomorrow if it isn’t too busy, it being a public holiday.
Some menu highlights from this week
Click on the picture for further information. If you would like recipes or further information let me know in the comments
As before, There is so much more we saw and did that I haven’t included here – you’ll just have to go see it for yourself!
I haven’t gone into great detail about anything in particular in this post, so if you would like me to expand on anything please leave a comment and I will endeavour to write another separate post on the topic.
Happy Motorhoming.
Hope You Enjoy!
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