Todra Gorges, Lake Tislet and the Gorges du Dades
Two of the best-known and most visited gorges in Morocco are the Todra Gorge and the Gorges du Dades.
It is possible to drive up into the mountains through one and then return down through the other, although a 20km section of the road is high altitude piste. So that’s what we did, driving through the Todra Gorge, on the N12, and continuing on to Lake Tislet high in the mountains. Then returning to Agoudal where we picked up the R704 and drove down through the mountains to the Gorges du Dades. It is at the highest point of this road that there is a 20km section of piste (unmade road).
The Todra Gorge
A drive from Tinghir on the N12/R703 will take you up into the High Atlas Mountains, passing through the Todra Gorges on the way. Both the Todra and neighbouring Dades Rivers are responsible for carving out these deep cliff-sided canyons, on their final 40 kilometres through the mountains. The height of the canyon walls can vary, but in some places can be up to 400 metres high.
The last 600 metres of the Todra gorge are the most spectacular. Here the canyon narrows to a flat stony track, in places as little as 10 metres wide, with sheer and smooth rock walls up to 160 metres high on each side.
During the dry season, the canyon floor is mostly dry; at most there will be a small stream of water. During this time, the wadi floor is easily traversed by travellers. During the rainy season, however, the Todgha can expand massively, covering the canyon floor in a strong torrent.
As with all these kinds of places, every possible place you could stop within the most popular part of the Gorge was lined with people hawking their wares. Although, to be fair, the bright colours of the rugs and scarves added a certain Moroccan charm to the stark stone face of the cliffs.
Just the other side of the Gorge there is plenty of parking where you can stop and walk back into the Gorge.
Tamtetouchte
A little further up the N12/R793, past the newly built Todra Dam, is the mountain village of Tamtetouchte.
Located at about 1750m altitude, at the foot of the High Atlas, it’s a great place as a base for hiking, visiting the Nomad villagers, salt mines, 4×4 excursions and the ruins of the nearby Kasbahs.
Because of the remote location, and it’s proximity to Todgha Gorges and Atlas Mountains, it relies somewhat on tourism, with a plethora of small guesthouses, campsites and a newly built hotel. Despite this however, it hasn’t lost its Berber identity, and the people are just amazing. So friendly.
Lakes Tislet and Isli
Lake Tislet is one of a two lakes in close proximity, the other being Lake Isli. Lake Tislet is located 20 km from Imichil, just off the N12. There is a 10 km dirt road through the mountains from there linking the two.
The lakes are named after two young lovers, Tislit and Isli, from nearby mountain villages. Their love was said to be so pure and genuine that they could no longer live apart. However, their families would not allow them to marry.
The Amazigh Romeo and Juliet escaped and climbed a mountain to grieve their disappointment. The flow of tears was so powerful that it created the lakes, now named after them. The lovers ended up dying of sorrow. As a result of this tragedy, the two communities decided that once a year, their young would be allowed to marry freely. The story says that Isli and Tislit come out of their lakes to meet together every night.
Lake Tislet is a popular destination for tourists visiting the High Atlas and with good reason. It is stunningly beautiful, the crystal clear water reflecting the rugged mountains behind is just magical. Probably because of the time of year we pretty much had it to ourselves. So peaceful and tranquil.
The R704
From Lake Tislet we re-traced our steps back to Agoudal where we picked up the R704 towards the Gorges du Dades. Passing back through Imilchil on the way, where it was Berber market day and very busy. We ended up waiting 20 minutes for a lorry to move out of the way where it was blocking the street. It ended up costing us 5 pens, one for each of his children, for a local to clear the way through for us!
The R704 starts as a really lovely road. Brand new and super wide for a mountain road. We stopped for lunch in the middle of nowhere, or so we thought. Within a couple of minutes of us pulling up a chap appeared from nowhere and started begging for food.
I tried to tell him we were just stopping briefly and then leaving, but he thought I was offering him food. I had a quick look through the cupboards but we didn’t have anything suitable to give him.
Eventually, another chap appeared with what I initially thought was a dead fox. However, it quickly became apparent that it was very much alive and appeared to be caught in a gin trap. The poor thing was terrified. I assume they had caught it and were going to kill and eat it. Abhorrent.
I understand that food is hard to come by in such remote places, but to be so cruel. Disgusting. And incredibly upsetting. And if they were keeping it alive for some other purpose, I hate to think about what that might be. We moved on.
The road carried on, climbing steadily. At 2908m altitude we reached the top. And what a view. Spectacular.
However, the nice tarmac road finished. From there onwards, down the other side, it was ‘piste’, or dirt track. There were “road works” going on where they were starting to construct the road down the other side, but for about 20 km it was a narrow, winding, bumpy track. Slow progress. Max speed of about 10 km/h.
The views on the other hand were stunning (when I did have the opportunity to take my eyes off of the road). By the time we got to the other end of the dirt road, I was pretty exhausted so it was just a case of finding somewhere to stop and get some rest for the night.
The Gorges du Dades
Wikipedia says The Dadès Gorges are a series of rugged wadi gorges carved out by the Dadès River. The river originates in the High Atlas mountains, flowing some 350 kilometres southwest before joining the Draa River at the edge of the Sahara. The many-coloured walls of the gorges range anywhere from 200 to 500 meters high.
Like anything, just quoting the bare facts doesn’t even begin to describe just how magical the Gorges are. As the local saying goes, the wind has a son who lives in Boumaine Dades, which is why he rushes down the valley to visit him.
The Dades River has carved through the rocks leaving rugged red cliffs and multi coloured strata lining the walls contrasting the lush green of the valley floor where the fertile soil had been cultivated for generations. The life-giving waters are being syphoned off through irrigation channels to nurture the crops in the African sun. Wheat, figs, olives, and apples rub shoulders with alfalfa, grass, and vegetables of all sorts.
Many of the Berber villages lining the gorge have the remains of once proud Kasbahs and Ksars. Locals waving with a happy smile on their faces as we pass by.
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