Week 9 and it’s time to leave Greece. We move on to Bulgaria. Along the way, we see the awe-inspiring Meteora Monasteries, get defeated by the roads (again), visit a couple of gorgeous traditional Bulgarian villages and take in the stunning Rila mountains.
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The Detail:
Distance Covered: 735 miles
Financial: Fuel £212; Site Fees £53; Groceries £14; Alcohol £3; Tolls £14; Laundry £23; Zeus £2; Total £321
Stopovers: Loggades (Greece); Nymfaio (Greece); Leshten (Bulgaria); Kromidovo [3 nights]; Rila Mountains
It is with some sadness that we leave Greece. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time there. But all good things come to an end, and with our need to leave the Schengen Zone, we go into Bulgaria.
We don’t really have any idea what to expect from Bulgaria. We passed through on our way to Greece, but we weren’t here long enough to form a proper opinion. So it is with some excitement that we set out to explore a new (to us) country.
The Meteora Monasteries
Meteora is an area in central Greece of immense rock pillars and hill-like, rounded boulders. Perched on top are six monasteries dating from the 13th century.
Approaching from the direction of Trikala as we did the skyline above Kalabaka is dominated by the massive rock formations, and clearly visible for many kilometres across the plateau.
Taking a small road just before Kalabaka starts a circuit which winds up the hill and around the Meteora. Then you turn a corner and the first monastery springs into view. It’s most definitely a wow moment. Even knowing what to expect doesn’t prepare you for that first impossible sight.
National Park of Tzoumerka, Peristeri & Arachthos Gorge.
Kalarites, and its twin across the ravine dividing them was our next intended destination. It’s a long drive right across the middle of the National Park of Tzoumerka, Peristeri & Arachthos Gorge.
We oh so nearly made it. With less than 20 kilometres to go we were approaching the highest point of the journey, the Mparos Pass. As we climbed we started to see two things, snow on the road, and many rockfalls.
I had to stop a couple of times to move rocks out of the way, but managed to continue onwards. However the further we went the worse it got. Both the snow and the rocks.
Eventually, about 5 kilometres from the pass we had to admit defeat. I stopped by a place I could turn around. I could see snow on the road ahead, but it was passable with care. However we were still climbing.
I walked up the road to see what lay around the next corner. The road was blocked by a rockfall. Time to admit defeat. I maybe could have cleared the rocks, but the combination of rockfalls and snow was only going to get worse.
So we turned around and found another way off the mountain. It was long, narrow and winding. Poor condition roads. Subsidence, rockfalls, and snow made it an interesting drive. But we eventually made it safely down.
All in all a very memorable day. Partly because of the challenging drive, but also because of the absolutely stunning scenery we passed through. It was a shame that we didn’t get to Kalarites, but we did see other beautiful villages along the way.
We finished the day close to Lake Pamvodita, at a small village called Loggades. We had intended to park right next to the lake, but the area we initially chose had many stray dogs so we moved from there. We still have a view over the lake but without the worry of a confrontation between Zeus and the strays.
Loggades to Nymfaio
The journey today saw us travelling through North Western Greece.
We started the day with a detour into the Vikos National Park. A steep drive up to the tiny hamlet of Vikos rewards you with stunning views through the Vikos Gorge. Sometimes called the grand canyon of Greece, the gorge is listed in the Guinness book of records as having the greatest depth relative to width in the world.
As we made the climb up to Vikos, we could see across the gorge the so-called hairpin road of Papingo. We counted at least 14 hairpin bends in the road snaking its way up the opposite side of the gorge.
Well naturally we had to make another detour just so I could drive up (and down) it. Indulgence, pure and simple, but it had to be done. We also found a gorgeous little picnic spot next to the river where we stopped for lunch.
From there it was a non-stop drive through the rugged, mountainous terrain of the North West. Eventually finishing up at a small mountain village called Nymfaio. A pretty little village with a bear sanctuary. We arrived too late to visit but will have a wander around in the morning.
The next morning we had a walk round the village before leaving. It was like a ghost town – no people although there were cars parked up and several dogs in some of the gardens. The village was mostly very well maintained and quite delightful. There was still quite a bit of snow laying around and, with more due, we reluctantly continued our journey.
Nymfaio to Leshten, Bulgaria
A long drive today. Our mission – to get into Bulgaria to stop the Schengen clock ticking.
So basically a day of driving, mostly on faster roads, with stops for practical things – water, fuel and groceries.
We eventually got to the border around 5 pm. It took a while because they had to check the Schengen days, but we got through no problem. The Bulgarian checkpoint was quicker, although they did do a cursory check around the van to make sure we weren’t bringing someone else in with us.
Finding somewhere to park up for the night was a bit more challenging. The first two choices we didn’t like – a city centre and a muddy field. We ended up in the car park of a small mountain village called Leshten.
Leshten to Kromidovo
Leshten. A “traditional” village located in the Rhodope mountains. Population 11 (2011).
It is a lovely little village of around 40 properties and a big hotel. The buildings date back around 200 years, the majority of which have been sympathetically restored in the original Kovachevski style with unusual stone roofing. There are also a couple of taverns offering traditional Bulgarian food.
At least half of the buildings are holiday lets with the remaining ones being occupied by locals either as their homes or one of the businesses. There is also a small village shop offering local wares.
With its traditional Kaldarum stone street running through the centre of the village it is an absolutely magical place to explore. Don’t miss the unusual clay house at the top of the village. It’s not in the same style as the other properties but rather looks like a pottery house. Definitely unique.
After exploring Leshten we headed for a campsite a few kilometres away at Kromidovo.
The truck sat nav we have took us a different route to Google maps – usually a safer but longer route. This time it had gone a bit mad as it drove us through what I can only describe as a very poor area – horse & cart, old vans, children playing on the streets with dogs and farm animals wandering loose. Everyone stopped to stare at us but it wasn’t intimidating – the children were laughing and waving, the adults wanted to say hello to Zeus and try to talk – lots of hand signals and attempts to communicate – these people may not have a lot of material wealth but they certainly have plenty of fun and happiness, clearly not missing out the stress of modern life. A lesson for us all.
After our mad dash through Greece we needed a couple of days to recuperate, catch up with some computer work and sort the boring but necessary chores like the laundry.
Kromidovo and Melnik
Time to take a breath and catch up with the chores.
A couple of minor repairs, laundry, update the website etc. Boring but necessary.
Still the weather is fabulous and it was lovely to sit down and basically do nothing after all the miles we have covered recently.
Melnik
Melnik is a small town in the Pirin mountains.
The town itself is an architectural reserve, with around 100 of its buildings being listed as cultural monuments.
The town is also popular as a destination because of the local landscape. Nearby are the Melnik Earth (or sandstone) Pyramids. These are rock formations, known as hoodoos, shaped in forms resembling giant mushrooms, ancient towers and obelisks, formed primarily by erosion from rainfall. They are a geological phenomenon of global importance and were declared a natural landmark in 1960.
Last, but by no means least, Melnik is located in the heart of Bulgaria’s wine region. Many of the local wineries have a presence in the town offering tastings of their products so you can try before you buy.
With all this to attract people to Melnik it is no surprise that it is a bustling tourist town, with busy taverns and restaurants alongside shops selling all manner of local produce including smaller vendors offering homemade wines alongside other homemade preserves and products.
Kromidovo to Seven Lakes of Rila
We have had a great stay at Kromidovo. John and Sara have been lovely hosts. Just what we needed.
I took a walk up to the Orbelus Organic Winery with Zeus before we left. Not because I wanted a tour and tasting, although that would have been nice, but to have a look at the unusual building used as the visitor centre. It is shaped like a barrel half buried in the ground, so whilst I was in the area I felt I should see it for myself. And it was indeed unusual, and set amongst acres and acres of vineyards, with nothing much else around.
This area is the main wine region of Bulgaria. However, unlike France where you find many small producers in each region, there seems to be just a handful of very large wineries dominating the market.
It also seems like every house and smallholding has at least a few vines. Presumably, so they can make their own homemade wines.
After a leisurely start, we eventually set off, heading for the Rila Mountains. We were going to go to the glacial lakes, but changed our minds over lunch and headed for the Rila Monastery instead. Mainly because it was closer, but also because we hadn’t appreciated that the clocks went forward in Bulgaria overnight for summertime so we had effectively lost an hour.
Rila Monastery is the largest and most famous in Bulgaria. It is regarded as one of Bulgaria’s most important cultural, historical, and architectural monuments and as such attracts literally hundreds of thousands of visitors each year.
It is definitely one of the must-see places if you are in Bulgaria. It is huge for a monastery, with accommodation for literally hundreds of monks, although there are only about 60 currently there.
The monastery was founded in the 10th century, but the current building was built in the 19th century. The main church and tower are located in an inner courtyard, surrounded by the 4 storey residential complex.
From the outside, the monastery resembles a fortress because of the small windows and high walls. But inside it is simply breathtaking. The cobbled inner courtyard and residential complex are magnificent in their own right.
The original defensive tower stands strong in the centre. Brooding over the courtyard like the giant guardian it was.
But everything pales before the grandeur of the main church. Just magnificent. And that is before you walk inside. I can’t even begin to describe it. Anything I tried to say would not be doing it justice. The sheer opulence and splendor are awe-inspiring. A true showpiece of the power and wealth of the church. Photos are not allowed inside the church so unfortunately I can’t show you just how magnificent it is.
After visiting the Monastery we had a choice. Stay nearby, a few kilometres down the road, or drive for about an hour to the Seven Lakes car park area.
We decided on the latter. Mainly because you have to catch a chair lift up to the top of the mountain followed by a 3 to 5 hour hike to see them. If we have a long drive in the morning we might be short on time. So that’s where we finished up.
Some menu highlights from this week
Click on the picture for further information. If you would like recipes or further information let me know in the comments
As before, There is so much more we saw and did that I haven’t included here – you’ll just have to go see it for yourself!
I haven’t gone into great detail about anything in particular in this post, so if you would like me to expand on anything please leave a comment and I will endeavor to write another separate post on the topic.
Happy Motorhoming.
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