The Moroccan Sahara Experience
Many people have an idea of what the Sahara desert should look like. They imagine endless golden dunes, the feeling of the sand between their toes, and the sound of the wind gently shifting the grains of sand. It’s a place of stunning sunsets and endless stars in the clear night skies, where one can be alone with their innermost self.
The Sahara Desert is vast and consists of many different areas, including shallow basins, extensive gravel plains, rocky plateaus, high mountains, and, of course, the vast golden sand dunes, or ergs, for which it is perhaps best known.
In Morocco, there are two popular locations for experiencing the Sahara Dream: Merzouga and M’Hamid. However, each place has its pros and cons, and they are quite different from each other. This article, based on our personal experiences, will help you make an informed decision about which location is right for you.
Summary:
Merzouga:
- You can park near the dunes at some campsites or while wild camping.
- It’s very commercial and sees a lot of visitors, especially those on day trips from places like Marrakech.
- You’ll encounter touts trying to get your business almost everywhere, including on the streets as you drive by.
- Quads are common and can be heard roaring across the dunes at all hours.
- Camels are widespread, with a large camel park and many corralled outside the hotels and campsites.
- 4×4 vehicles are frequently seen carrying tourists or supplies to the camps.
- It’s noisy and challenging to find peaceful spots.
- The back of the dune has a large number of camps with varying levels of quality.
M’Hamid:
- It is in the desert, but not the golden dunes of Merzouga.
- The dunes are only accessible by 4×4 vehicles, with a 56 km drive to Erg Chigaga taking 1.5 to 2 hours.
- It’s commercial but less so than Merzouga.
- There’s a steady stream of 4×4 vehicles passing by on their way to the dunes.
- Quads are not present.
- There are only a few camels.
- It’s less busy than Merzouga, with most people parking and heading out for an overnight trip to one of the camps in the desert
- It is the starting point for a 4×4 trip to Foum Zguid.
- It’s more of a base for visiting Erg Chigaga rather than a destination in its own right.
- There are dozens of options for accommodation or camping
Hassilabied near Merzouga
Hassilabied
Hassilabied is a picturesque village located on the far western edge of the Sahara Desert. It is adjacent to Erg Chebbi, one of Morocco’s several ergs – large seas of dunes formed by wind-blown sand. The area is a haven for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, with the economy centred around tourism. Visitors can choose from a variety of accommodation options such as campsites, auberges, hotels, homestays, and guest houses, all of which provide a unique and immersive experience in the heart of the desert.
Sunset and Camels
Most people who visit Hassilabied or Merzouga, do so to witness the breathtaking sunset over the golden dunes of the Sahara while riding a camel. One of the most iconic experiences one can have in the Sahara Desert. After the sun goes down, visitors descend to the other side to stay in one of the many traditional Berber Tent camps permanently set up there. The evening is filled with Moroccan food and music, followed by a night of sleeping under the stars in the middle of the desert.
Adrenaline Rush
Aside from this theatre, there are many other exciting activities that visitors can indulge in. 4×4 excursions into the Sahara Desert, quad biking, sand skiing, trekking, camel or horse riding. The sheer beauty of the scenery and the adrenaline rush of these activities make for an unforgettable experience. Moreover, the clear skies and lack of light pollution mean that the stars in the night sky are truly breathtaking.
A pleasant Surprise
One of the pleasant surprises of visiting Hassilabied is that visitors are left to their own devices and aren’t set upon by pushy salespeople. However, it’s worth noting that the experience might be different in the much more commercial Merzouga, located just a few kilometres away.
Merzouga
The Legend Of Erg Chebbi
The golden dunes of Erg Chebbi have been shrouded in legend and folklore for as long as anyone can remember. Many stories have been passed down through generations, with tales of rich families, poor women, and divine intervention. According to one such story, a wealthy family once refused to help a destitute woman and her son. This angered God, who buried the family under heaps of sand as a punishment, thus forming the majestic dunes we see today. While the truth is far less romantic, as the dunes were formed by wind-blown sand, the legends add a certain mystique to the already stunning landscape.
A Tourist Destination
The dunes of Erg Chebbi are a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from all over the world. The nearby towns of Hassilabied and Merzouga have become the hub of a thriving industry, offering various activities such as camel rides, quad bikes, sandboarding, 4×4 tours, and stays in Berber tents. These activities are designed to cater to the romantic ideal of the Western visitor, who seeks the solitude and beauty of the desert.
Peace and quiet?
However, for those seeking a more authentic experience, the constant noise and activity in the area can be overwhelming. The hum of vehicles, camel parks filled with tethered animals awaiting tourists, touts vying for business, overpriced goods and produce in the shops, and luxury tents on the far side of the dunes can all detract from the peace and tranquillity of the desert. While the area is undeniably beautiful, it may not be ideal for everyone.
A very personal opinion
As for us, we visited Merzouga for business and spent Christmas among the dunes. While we appreciated the beauty of the area, the noise and commotion were too much for our liking. The experience may be magical for some, but it ultimately depends on individual preferences.
M'Hamid
An Oasis Town
M’Hamid is a charming little oasis town nestled near the Algerian border, approximately 100 km south of Zagora.
The town boasts of a rich history, although not much detail is known about it due to the lack of written records, which is typical for the region.
Agriculture
Historically the people relied heavily on agriculture to support the local population. Unfortunately, since the 1970s, there has been little or no winter rain, making farming no longer viable. Adding to the woes, a fungal infection of the date palms has badly affected the palmeraie.
Modern Tourism
These days, the town is a popular destination for off road enthusiasts and tourists who wish to visit Erg Chigaga, the largest of several nearby dunes only accessible by 4×4.
As a result, the town heavily relies on tourism. Access to the dunes is more challenging than at Merzouga, which makes it less commercialized.
The Old Town
The original town is located within the palmeraie, about 3km from the modern location. Unfortunately, it is mostly crumbling and abandoned today, with only a few poor families living there.
The new town has been built using more modern construction techniques. Recently there has been a constant fight against the wind-blown sand and the growth of the Sahara Desert to keep everything functioning.
Genuine People
To be honest, the buildings of the town aren’t anything extraordinary. Its people, however, are some of the nicest and most genuine that one could meet in Morocco.
There is an undeniable charm in the simple lifestyle of the locals, and the hospitality they offer is overwhelming. The promise of a cooking lesson on making traditional couscous from scratch is just one of the many reasons we can’t wait to return to this town.
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