This week sees our last few days in Romania before moving on to Hungary and starting the slow journey home.
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The Detail:
Distance Covered: 445 miles
Financial:
Fuel £60; LPG £20; Groceries £74; Site Fees £26; Alcohol £18; Zeus £4; Tolls £13; Medical £23; Eating Out £29; Other £9; Total £276
Stopovers:
Romania: Cerna Sat; Dubova; Cheile Nerei-Beusnita National Park; Camping Casa Ferch [2 nights]
Hungary: Beretzk Peter Kilato; Tass
As our time in Romania draws to a close we take a scenic drive along the banks of the Danube before stopping at a campsite to recharge for a couple of days and catch up with the chores. Then we say la revedere to Romania and hello to Hungary.
Cheile Corcoaia
The intention today was to follow the DN67D down towards the Rock Sculpture of Decebalus. No rush, just enjoying the drive.
The road takes you past the other end of the DN66A, the one we decided not to drive along a few days ago. We stopped briefly to take a couple of pictures then moved on.
Carol then said to me “why aren’t we driving to the gorge from this end?” bearing in mind we had said we would try when we turned around at the other end….so, of course, we had to turn around and give it a try.
The drive is about 13 kilometres to the Corcoaia Gorge. The road itself was at one time a proper tarmac road. Now, however, it’s nothing more than an interconnected series of potholes. We did eventually make it, but it took something like 2 hours of very slow, careful driving to get there.
The gorge is only about 200 metres long, but it is absolutely stunning. It’s a little tricky to walk along, with a slippery rock “trail” sloping towards the river. Not something for Carol or Zeus to try…one not balanced enough with a gammy leg and one who would want to scare us by excitedly going places they shouldn’t…will let the reader decide which is which. There are handrails along much of the route, but they didn’t feel particularly sturdy.
For the third day in a row now we have decided not to move on after lunch and will stop here for tonight.
Another 8 kilometres up the road is a dam with a lake behind it. Apparently, the road from here up to the dam is even worse. We have seen a double cab and a pick-up truck return from there. Should we attempt it tomorrow, or return to our original idea?
Interesting experience tonight. A couple turned up in their pick-up truck. The shepherds were obviously expecting them. They selected a lamb, which was carried away from the rest of the flock. Without any fuss or drama, its throat was cut. The lamb wasn’t stressed or panicking.
When dead one leg was skinned, then the carcass was hung from a tree and skinned. All this with just a penknife.
The carcass weight was about 12 kg, for which the couple paid 600 lei (just over £100). No fuss, no drama, just an everyday occurrence in the life of a shepherd.
I can see that for some this would be quite shocking, but for me, it was a fascinating insight into the day-to-day life of rural Romania.
However, having a flock of sheep, goats, donkeys, sheepdogs, and shepherds as neighbours doesn’t make for a restful night. The sheep insisted on trying to use the van as a scratching post. The dogs barked at any noise, although I can’t blame them, it’s bear country and they are doing their job.
They all finally settled down, but at dawn the scratching started again.
Statue of Decebalus and Wild camping area, Dubova
Another bumpy 2 hour drive to cover the 14 kilometres back to the main road. Although we did stop three times on route: once to take on water, once to walk Zeus and once to talk with a gent driving a German camper up the road.
The drive along the 67 is pleasant enough, even if the road isn’t the best we have driven on. There is some wonderful scenery as you wind your way down through the Parcul Național Domogled-Valea Cernei.
As you get towards the bottom of the valley you come to the Bazine termale. These are naturally occurring hot springs located right next to the river, which have been channelled into a string of thermal baths. As with many of the waters of hot springs, these are said to ease pain, particularly that associated with rheumatism. Unusually for Romania there is no charge to use them.
Even though it was still early in the morning when we passed through the area it was already very busy. It was somewhat disconcerting to see so many (mainly older) people wandering around the roads in swimwear.
Next stop was the Statue of Decebalus.
The rock sculpture of Decebalus is a colossal carving of the face of Decebalus (AD 87–106), the last king of Dacia, who fought against the Roman emperors Domitian and Trajan.
Carved into the rock between 1994 and 2004, on an outcrop on the Danube, at the Iron Gates, which form the border between Romania and Serbia. The Dacian king’s sculpture is the tallest rock relief in Europe, at 55 m (180 ft) in height and 25 m (82 ft) in width.
There are many boat tours in the area to see the carving and other nearby sites along the river such as the Danube’s Big Boilers, Veterani Cave, and Tabula Széchenyi. However, if you just want a quick snapshot of the statute you can do that from the road. There is a gravel track running very close where you can stop and get a very good view.
After lunch (another Langos – I think we are mildly addicted to them now) we moved on. Because of the disturbed night, we were both shattered so we found a wild camping area nearby and settled down for the afternoon/evening.
DN57, DN571 and Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park
Our Romanian Romp is coming to a close. It’s getting close to the time when we have to start the slow drive home.
As we were in the bottom southwestern corner of the country we decided we would make our way towards the border via the scenic route. It all started so well. We took the DN57 which hugs the banks of the Danube, following the natural border with Serbia. It was a very easy drive, despite the short stretch of closed road. Fortunately, they were allowing vehicles through, albeit only sporadically.
It is achingly beautiful in parts with views across the river to the forest-shrouded mountains of Serbia, barges chugging up and down, castles, and majestic cliffs.
Crucially, in my opinion, it also hasn’t been spoiled by over-commercialisation. Yes, there is holiday accommodation dotted along the banks, but not to the point where it is intrusive.
From there we decided to cut across country. It seems I don’t have a lot of luck when picking the minor roads. The DN157. The intended destination, a parking place close to a small village, was at the far end of the road.
Before deciding to take this route, which winds over the wooded hills to the Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park, I took a little time to do some research.
The reviews I could find didn’t really help, just a vague hint that the road was “a bit weird”. I watched YouTube videos, which showed a tarmac road, albeit with some potholes. No hint that it wasn’t a proper road.
So that’s the route I decided to take. Maybe not the fastest, but hopefully scenic. It didn’t start off too well. An old concrete road through a rather run-down Roma town. Then almost immediately we got out of the far end of the town the road became a gravel track.
As it was actually in good condition for a gravel road, and the locals were using it, we decided to press on. The track wound its way up the forest-clad hills to a small hamlet called Moldovita. From there it descended to the villages of Carbunari and Stinapari, right on the edge of the National Park.
Because the forest was so thick, and the usual afternoon thunderstorm had arrived, there wasn’t actually much in the way of scenic views. A thunderstorm, while driving on a forest track, what could possibly go wrong….
Fortunately, nothing did and we made it through. When we emerged on the far side and found the tarmac roads they were, quite frankly, awful. We picked our way carefully through the potholes to our intended destination.
When we arrived we found that the rains had made the access very soft and muddy. We decided not to risk it. So we moved on toward the Cheile Nerei-Beușnița National Park.
Cheile Nerei-Beusnita is described as one of the most breathtaking national parks in Romania, with iconic blue lakes and wild gorges.
Road access into the park itself is pretty much non-existent, with only a few dirt tracks and forest trails. We found a place to park right on the edge of the National Park area. Technically we are actually in the Park, but we are hidden away off the road behind some trees so hopefully, we won’t get moved on.
Camping Casa Ferch
We found a small campsite not too far from the border with Hungary. The idea is to catch up with all the chores before we start the journey back to the UK.
The campsite is actually in the middle of Deta. The owners run a B&B from the main property which fronts the main road through the town. Behind is a huge garden which they are using as a campsite, both for tents and motorhomes – up to 6 apparently.
Access is through a narrow passage between buildings. Only just wide enough to get ours in. There were literally a couple of centimetres on either side to spare. Once in it is remarkably quiet. You don’t really hear the noise from the town, or the traffic.
There are also 3 churches nearby so you are woken quite early by the bells, which didn’t bother us, but might be an issue for others. Being in the center of town does mean access to shops, bars, restaurants, etc is very easy.
The town itself is a bit of a rough diamond. Some of the buildings are not in the best condition. If you move away from the main road there are lots of reminders of the communist era. Concrete apartment blocks, now in poor condition but still occupied, old factories now just empty shells.
But the people seem happy and friendly enough. I didn’t feel uncomfortable walking Zeus at night. The bars and restaurants were busy, in the local park is a seating area with food and drink stalls – there was music and the buzz of conversation, children playing nearby while their parents chatted with friends. It had a nice feel to it.
La revedere Romania, Helló Hungary
Then it was time to start the long journey home. We have a little over 3 weeks to get back to Calais for our crossing. If we drove straight there it would be about a 16-hour drive, so possible in a day or two if you really wanted to. But where would be the fun in that?
Instead, the plan is to take in a few sights along the way. Starting with Lake Balaton in Hungary, then through Austria and Switzerland, hopefully taking in some of the wonderful scenic drives on the way. From there we are hoping to go up to the Black Forest and then into the Alsace region of France, before heading up through Eastern France.
After checking out of the campsite we had a steady drive through North West Romania to the border crossing at Cenad. A pleasant drive, although not much in the way of scenery as it’s mainly farmland, with the occasional small town or village. Stopping en route for groceries, lunch, fuel, and LPG meant that it took a little longer to get to the border than anticipated.
The border crossing itself was uneventful. Handed over the passports, cursory check for stowaways, and then waved through.
I had hoped to make it to Lake Balaton today, but it was still a good couple of hours or so from the border crossing, not allowing for Lottie’s slower pace. So we started looking for somewhere else to stop on the way.
The first place we tried – jackpot! A small car park for a bird-watching tower overlooking wetlands. In the middle of farmland, a good way from any population center or roads. Surrounded by alfalfa, wheat, and poppy fields, no one else was around, just the sound of the wind rustling the leaves and birdsong.
Tass
We seem to have done it again. We set off this morning heading towards Lake Balaton. We chose somewhere to stop for lunch from one of the apps we use.
When we got here it was such a lovely spot we had lunch and decided to stop. Admittedly part of the decision to stop was because it is a Sunday and therefore likely to be busy at the Lake. So we are now parked up in a tiny picnic area right next to the Danube. The only downside is that the mosquitoes are starting to come out in force now, but I don’t think it’s possible to avoid them at the moment.
Decided late on to go out for dinner at the restaurant just around the corner from us. Cheap as chips, less than £25 for 2 courses and 3 drinks, but if I’m honest it wasn’t great. I tried the catfish soup. Could have been tasty, but there was a strong fishy taste/smell that I associate with fish that isn’t very fresh.
Driving in Hungary:
If you intend to use any of the main roads in Hungary then you will need to buy a vignette. It cost us about £12 for 10 days, the minimum period we could get.
Normally we wouldn’t bother to buy a vignette, preferring to travel slowly on the minor roads. However on this occasion we chose to do so for several reasons:
- Firstly we are only passing through on our way home, and apart from Lake Balaton, we are not really intending on exploring.
- Hungary has huge areas of farmland which we know from experience isn’t that scenic when driving through
- Whilst the main roads are good, as soon as you venture off onto the minor roads they can be very rough.
Some menu highlights from this week
Click on the picture for further information. If you would like recipes or further information let me know in the comments
As before, There is so much more we saw and did that I haven’t included here – you’ll just have to go see it for yourself!
I haven’t gone into great detail about anything in particular in this post, so if you would like me to expand on anything please leave a comment and I will endeavor to write another separate post on the topic.
Happy Motorhoming.
Hope You Enjoy!
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