Transylvania, May 2023

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This week we begin to explore Transylvania and everything it has to offer. Stunning Scenery, castles, fortified churches and so much more.

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The Detail:

Distance Covered: 292 miles

Financial: Fuel £60; Parking £9; Groceries £28; Alcohol £4; Laundry £23; Entrance Fees £23; Eating Out £50; Total £197

Stopovers: Piatra Craiului Mountains; Azuga; Timisu de Jos; Ricer Olt; Racos [2 nights]; Ghidut

Transylvania is a region in central Romania. It’s known for medieval towns, mountainous borders, and castles – probably the best known of which is Bran Castle, a Gothic fortress associated with the legend of Dracula. Away from the towns and cities, you find lush pastures, horse-drawn carts trotting along the tracks, Shepherds tending flocks of goats, sheep, and cows, and villagers tending to the land by hand. Transylvania has been described as the ‘last truly medieval landscape in Europe’.

Labor Day

We were planning on visiting Bran and Rasnov on Monday. However, while taking Zeus for his morning bimble I got talking to one of the locals.
 
Turns out that this weekend is an important date in the Romanian calendar. 
 

Labor Day is a national public holiday in Romania so banks, public offices, and many private businesses are closed.

Labor Day in Romania was celebrated for the first time in 1890. It was a popular event associated with political propaganda during the Communist era. However, after the Romanian Revolution of 1989, Labor Day was toned down to simply being a day off work and a holiday marked with social events.

The May 1 holiday is also known as May Day,  a celebration of spring and rebirth taking place in nature.

That means that we had to re-evaluate our plans. Chances are the places we wanted to go would be crazy busy. 
 
In the end, we decided to take another rest day and start again tomorrow, when things will hopefully have quietened down. 
 
We had a lovely evening sharing a few drinks and stories with Lauren and Sam.

Bran Castle

Bran is, of course, known for its castle. Made famous because of its association with Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Dracula was a Count with a castle in Transylvania, perched on a rock high above a valley with a river below.
 
Because Bran Castle is the only one in all of Transylvania that actually fits Bram Stoker’s description of Dracula’s Castle, it is known throughout the world as Dracula’s Castle, even though Bram never visited Romania, let alone Bran Castle.
 
As a result of the fame of the castle, the area has become a major tourist destination. Hotels, restaurants, gift shops, it’s all there. 

Rasnov Citadel

Perched on top of the hill above Rasnov is the Medieval Rasnov Citadel.
 
The fortress was built as part of a defence system for the Transylvanian villages as a refuge from invading forces. A decisive aspect for building the fortress at its location was the route of the invading armies which were coming from the Bran pass and were passing through Râșnov, on their way to Brașov.
 
The fortress is currently undergoing refurbishment works, which were due to finish last year, but I assume were delayed by COVID.

Peles Castle

When King Carol I of Romania (1839–1914), under whose reign the country gained its independence, first visited the site of the future castle in 1866, he fell in love with the magnificent mountain scenery. In 1872, the Crown purchased 5 square kilometers (1.9 sq mi) of land near the Piatra Arsă River. The estate was named the Royal Estate of Sinaia. 
 
The King commissioned the construction of a royal hunting preserve and summer retreat on the property, and the foundation was laid for Peleș Castle on 22 August 1873. Several auxiliary buildings were built simultaneously with the castle: the guards’ chambers, the Economat Building, the Foișor hunting lodge, the royal stables, and a power plant. Peleș became the world’s first castle fully powered by locally produced electricity.
 
Peles Castle is absolutely magical, but it is one of the major attractions in Transylvania. 
 
As such it’s very commercialised. To visit the Museum it’s 50 Lei per person for the basic tour, 100 Lei if you want to see the first floor as well, and 150Lei if you want to see the whole thing. Parking is 50Lei per day for a motorhome. However, if you want to just walk around the grounds and the terrace there is no charge. Pets are not allowed in the castles but could walk round the grounds on a lead.
 
We visited in early May on a weekday and it was already busy, with queues at the entrance, so expect a wait. It is possible to pre-book tickets to bypass the queues at extra cost.
 
The castle is approached up a hill by a long cobbled road. Well, actually there are two, one on each side of the stream. One is used by vehicles as well, the other is pedestrian only. The pedestrian one is lined with stalls selling tourist goods.
 
When you get to the top you are treated to a magnificent view of the castle slightly further up the hill. 
 
Actually, there are two castles there. The second, Castle Pelisor, was built at the same time as a gift for the King’s son-in-law, and is hidden among the trees nearby. The majority of the other buildings are now hotels and restaurants.
 
Because we had Zeus with us we opted not to go into the castle (we would have had to go in separately and queue twice). We still, however, enjoyed a leisurely stroll around the grounds and terraces, admiring the view and the amazing architecture.

Cantacuzino Castle

Not far from Peles Castle, in Busteni, is Cantacuzino Castle.
 
The building, whose construction was completed in 1911, was conducted by the architect Grigore Cerchez, a prominent figure of the Neo-Romanian style, at the request of Prince Gheorghe Grigore Cantacuzino, who was nicknamed “Nababul” (“The Nabob”) because of his vast wealth.
 
The castle is currently undergoing refurbishment so you can’t see the interior at the moment, but you can visit the grounds if you wish, for a fee of course.
 
It was the location of the school in a recent T.V. series called Wedsnesday and the castle is definitely playing up to that with plenty of advertising round the town and is getting more tourists than normal because of it.
Cantacuzino Castle, Romania
Timisu de Jos, Romania

Timisu de Jos

We finished the day at Timisu de Jos. This is the starting point for the “Canyon of the 7 Ladders” hike. 
 
The Seven Ladders Canyon (Romanian: Canionul Șapte Scări) is a mountainous canyon carved by the Șapte Scări Brook. In the canyon are seven waterfalls, the tallest being 35 metres (115 ft) high. The trail within the canyon is followed via a series of metal stairs and platforms.
 
We took a wander around the area. Unfortunately, however, the hike is currently closed for refurbishment so we were unable to get to the canyon.

Brasov

A couple of practical stops first – top up the fresh water (from a mountain spring!) and drop off the laundry at a launderette. Then we headed towards Brasov Old Town.
 
Brasov was founded, in 1211, by the Teutonic Knights. In the 13th-Century Brasov was settled by the Saxons. Its favourable trading location allowed merchants to accumulate considerable wealth which in turn funded the fortification of the town.
 
We parked up near the White Tower, a semicircular building originally erected as a watchtower. From there we were greeted by an amazing panoramic view over the rooftops of the old town.
 
There are many buildings that are places of interest in the old town, as well as a plethora of restaurants and coffee shops. 
 
We spent a lovely few hours exploring, taking in some of the sights, including the Sfatului Square (or council square – the central square of the Old Town), The Black Church (Romania’s largest Gothic Church), the white and black towers, the Medieval Walls, Ecaterina Gate and Rope Street – the narrowest street in Romania at approximately four feet wide. It was initially used as an access route by firefighters.
 
We even treated ourselves to lunch in one of the many restaurants in Council Square, and very nice it was too, despite the weather.

Harman Fortified Church

The Saxon villages of Transylvania appeared in the twelfth century when the Kings of Hungary settled German colonists in the area. They managed to survive and thrive, forming a very strong community of farmers, artisans and merchants. 
 
Being situated in a region constantly under threat from Ottoman and Tatar invasions, they built fortifications of different sizes. The most important towns were fully fortified, and the smaller communities created fortifications centered on the church, where they added defensive towers and storehouses to keep their most valuable goods and to help them withstand long sieges.
 
There are around 150 well preserved fortified churches in the South Eastern Transylvania area, seven of which are listed as UNESCO world heritage sites. 
 
We visited the one in Harman. Although not a UNESCO site, it is one of the best preserved examples of a fortified church. And it didn’t disappoint. Our only problem was that we arrived late in the day and didn’t really leave ourselves enough time to look around fully. It was fascinating, and we could have easily spent far more time exploring the various nooks and crannies.

Lacul Dumbrăvița

As it wasn’t too far away we thought we might start the day with a walk around the nearby Lake Dumbravita.
 
The Dumbravita lake area consists of lakes, fishponds, reservoirs, a river, reed beds, marshes, channels, pastures and willows. It is relatively small, but over 200 species of birds have been spotted there. It seemed like an ideal place for a leisurely morning walk with Zeus.
 
Unfortunately, however, we didn’t allow for Mother  Nature. Persistent light rain overnight had left the dirt tracks around the lake somewhat wet and muddy. In addition the banks were lined with people fishing. We decided against stopping as there was a high risk of getting stuck, so moved on. Shame, because I am sure it would have been a lovely place to walk around.
Lake Dumbravita, Romania

Feldioara

This is a village in Transylvania best known for its fortress.
 
Before heading to the fortress we stopped briefly at the monument to the Saxon students who fell in battle in 1612. The monument was built between 1912 – 1913. It was erected in memory of the 40 young Saxon students of the “Johannes Honterus” secondary school in Brașov who fell in the battle fought on October 16, 1612.
 
We were able to go inside and climb the stairs – which were very steep and with narrow steps. Sadly the murals within have been vandalised with graffiti – I can see this being permanently closed in the future.
 
Also in Feldioara is a fortified church. Unfortunately this has fallen into disrepair and is currently closed. Whether it will be renovated in the future I don’t know. I would like to think that having more than one attraction in the village would make it even more of a draw for visitors. We shall see.
 
 
The fortress was originally built by the Teutonic Knights during the 13th century and was considered to be the most important in Transylvania.
 
It had, unfortunately, become a ruin, until 2014 when restoration work began. The work was completed in 2017.
 
All enclosure walls and all towers to the north, south, east, west, as well as the protective Zwinger wall have been restored. All the original fortifications, from the time of the Teutons, have been preserved in their entirety.
 
Now effectively a living museum it’s a fascinating place to explore, giving you a good insight into what life was like during those turbulent times.

Racos Geological Complex

The Geological Complex of Racoş is an area comprising three separate volcanic phenomena in close proximity.

 
These are:
 
The Basalt Columns of Racos
The Emerald Lake
The Extinct Volcano
 
Until the 1960s the area was used as a quarry for mining the basalt. Since 2007 it has been a nature reserve.
 
Entrance fees were 20 lei per person, although judging by the signage this will rise to 25 lei per person soon.
 
The emerald lake was formed as a result of the former quarrying of the basalt. It is some 200 metres long and backed by cliffs around 50 metres high. The colour of the water is a combination of salts from the rocks and algae. The colour is most intense in the spring and autumn. The water in the lake comes from precipitation, melting snow and natural springs. Currently around 18 meters deep the water level is rising by as much as 1 metre annually.
 
The Basalt Columns can be seen in the former quarry. The mining activity was halted in the 1960s when the site was declared a natural monument. The basalt lava flows belong to the first eruptive phase in the Racoş area, approximately 1.4 million years ago. 
 
The columns were formed in three distinctive eruptive phases. 
 
With a height of up to 12 metres, vertical pentagonal prism columns were formed during the first phase.
 
The second phase is characterised by horizontal basalt flows, with a thickness of about 1 metre. 
 
The third and last phase formed vertical pentagonal columns 1 metre thick.
 
The extinct volcano was certainly more impressive than we expected and definitely worth the hike up to it. 

Sükösd-Bethlen Castle

Included in the fee is entrance to the Sükösd-Bethlen Castle in the village of Racos.
 
The castle was originally built in the 17th century. During the early part of the 1900’s it began to fall into decline.
 
In recent years some work has been done to prevent further decline. There are plans for a full restoration which hopefully will return it to something like its former glory.
 
It is very much a work in progress at the moment, but it is easy to see what it could be with a little bit more work.

That dirt track

What is it about human nature? Are we naturally stubborn? Or is it just the challenge? Or stupidity?
 
We set off early as there was quite a bit we wanted to see today….plus we didn’t want to pay for another day. 
 
First off a short drive to a fortified church. Nothing special, not on the tourist radar, but marked on Google and on our route so why not stop off. The road, the 112c, is marked on Google satnav as being a proper road. So off we go.
 
The first bit of the road was a bit rough, but we put that down to the heavy lorries from the local quarries. Soon enough, however, it becomes obvious that it’s never going to be a proper road. It’s a dirt track.
 
We stop and have a conversation. It’s 11 kilometres if we take the dirt track, but nearer 55 if we turn around and take the alternative route. The track in front of us doesn’t look too bad. Let’s go a little way and see how we get on…..how bad can it be?
 
In fairness the first couple of kilometres weren’t too bad. Then you get to the point of no return. It becomes a challenge. As the road becomes more and more rough you just can’t face turning around and retracing your steps. If indeed you could even find anywhere to turn around.
 
The road gradually gets worse. Made even more so by the recent rains. Eventually Carol has to put on the wellies and start trailblazing. Checking the road ahead and picking the best way through.
 
I’m gradually counting down the kilometres left. About 3 to go. Then we hit a stretch of the track where they have been doing some logging. The lorries have cut it up real bad. Picking a way through is becoming increasingly difficult.
 
We manage to get through there, but then the track must have become impassable for the loggers. They have ‘built’ a detour up a hill. It’s just mud and gravel that has been bulldozed into a temporary slope. It’s really badly cut up where the lorries have been going up there. Deep ruts, steep slope, loose shingle and mud. There are also random fires along the hedge… deliberately lit…and left!
 
Carol walks up and down it, trying to spot a way through. But it’s not obvious. Eventually a way is chosen. Off I go. But the wheels are spinning before I even get to the hill. This doesn’t bode well.
 
Reverse back a little. Try again. And we are off. Start up the right hand side, hard left, then back to the right briefly, back to the left before cresting the top on the right. 
 
Only one chance at this. If I stop, lose traction or go off line then that’s it. Stuck, and miles from anywhere. Keep moving forward. Don’t brake. Don’t ride the clutch.
 
Thankfully I made it. Don’t know what we would have done if I hadn’t. And the track at the top was much better……for a while.
 
Google, still showing the dirt track as a proper road, then proceeded to direct us into a lake, albeit a very pretty one. 
 
The logging lorries had carved an alternative route, but it was even worse than what we had faced before. Picking a way through was almost impossible. At one point there was a trough across the track and I had no choice but to take a run up and hope I bounced up the other side out of it.
 
But we got through. How, I’m not sure. Lottie did brilliantly, and thank goodness for her high ground clearance….although she did move some mud along the way. (We also found a pile on the step later on) The looks from the locals as we came off the dirt road the other end said it all. How we made it through I will never know.
 
9.8 miles in just over 2 hours. Did it save us any time…no. But we are on an adventure to make memories, and this will remain in the memory for a very long time.

Fortified church at Racosul de sus

At the other end of the track is the rather lovely little village of Racosul de sus. On Google the village church is described as a fortified church. As we were very close we decided to stop and have a look around. 
 
We parked up in the village centre, with more questioning looks from the locals. I guess they don’t see many motorhomes. To be honest it wasn’t much more than a church with a high wall. Nice enough but it didn’t take long to look around. There was a service in progress in the church so we didn’t go inside. 

Lake St. Ann

Lake St. Ann (Lacul Sfânta Ana) is the only crater lake in Romania located in the crater of the Ciomad volcano of the Eastern Carpathians.
 
As with many other things in Romania it has become a little commercialised. There is a paid car park with automatic barriers at the top of the crater. Parking is 40 Lei (£7.21) for the first 3 hours, 2 Lei per half hour thereafter. Pedestrians are charged 30 Lei each, probably to discourage people from parking on the roads. It is possible to stop over in the car park, for a fee of 80 Lei (£14.42).
 
From the car park it’s a good 20 minute walk down the steep sides of the crater to the lake. There is a well maintained forest path with endless switchbacks and some steps, or you can follow the access road. There is a free shuttle service for the elderly, pregnant women and people with disabilities.
 
There are food stalls in the car park and at the lakeside where you can get something to eat and drink. You can also hire a row boat if you fancy going out on the lake.
 
The water in the lake comes solely from precipitation. The lake is gradually getting shallower, due to underground leakage and most probably will turn into a swamp much like the nearby Mohos peat bog in a few hundred years.
 
The lake is famous for the frequent visits of bears from the surrounding woods. The bears have become used to tourists, and will venture close to the camps or even people. This is why late night walks are not recommended.
 
The lake itself is very picturesque, with a greenish hue, surrounded by fir forest. A walk around the perimeter would probably take about half an hour if you walked at a reasonable pace, but with Carol taking photos and Zeus sniffing every tree it took a while longer.
 
There is a chapel set back a little from the lakeside, and there was at one time a second, but there’s not much evidence of it remaining now.

Some menu highlights from this week

Click on the picture for further information. If you would like recipes or further information let me know in the comments

As before, There is so much more we saw and did that I haven’t included here – you’ll just have to go see it for yourself!

I haven’t gone into great detail about anything in particular in this post, so if you would like me to expand on anything please leave a comment and I will endeavour to write another separate post on the topic.

Happy Motorhoming.

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